Cowboys haven’t had the best associations lately W., Hannah Montana and the Cyrus family…. But word on the street is the western aesthetic is being adopted by the ‘hard-core hip’ in Paris.

One would think that these would be the last days you’d see the western aesthetic popping up. Cowboys haven’t had the best associations lately W., Hannah Montana and the Cyrus family. But word on the street is the western aesthetic is being adopted by the ‘hard-core hip’ in Paris. I had my doubts, and literally laughed out loud at the ridiculous Hermes collection, it’s extremely cliche. With all the ridiculous cowboys, the west has a lot of beautiful visual cues, Georgia O’Keefe, Brokeback Mountain, Johnny Cash, Pasty Cline, The Good, The Bad and The Ugly… ok… I can make a long list of great western films, so I’ll stop here.

Here’s three amazing collections utilizing the western aesthetic…

Toga

Japanese label, designed by Yasuko Furuta highlights the pretty elements of the cowboy aesthetic, softening it with neutral colors and soft, stretchy fabrics. via DazedDigital (thanks Susie!)

Peter Pilotto

Antwerp design grads Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos design a western themed 1830’s ‘minerologist’ collection, mixing textile prints with a distinctive old west winter attire.

Givenchy

Probably the most literal and mainstream of the lot… yet focusing not on the hat, boots and fringe, but the cuts of the cowboy blazer, the bolero tie… an Elvis cape… there is also hints of the cowboy bondage that is normally reserved for the Folsom Street Fair more than Paris. via Style.com

They used to say hemlines reflected the economy… then they said, it didn’t matter anymore… but I’m wondering since this year hemlines seem to be all over the place, even on the same garment… if the old adage is actually true. Either way, from Luella, Miu Miu, Sonia Rykiel, and Haider Ackermann… to name a few … there’s quite a number of multi-layered, multi-length skirts and dresses on the runways for the coming up spring season.

Of course I couldn’t let these go by without trying out some of my own versions of this look. I happen to think it’s genius, like what to do with those vintage aprons I have hanging around… or maybe… how to get the most wear out of the countless skirts I already own… why not wear two at a time? Using two belts (while I’m at the multple kick,  why not go all out?) I belted on a lighter fluffy skirt that’s almost too airy to wear on it’s own. It makes the lace tiered mini a little less mini and a little more tiered.

runway pics from style.com

2008 has been the biggest year for women in politics in the US since women won the right to vote just 88 years ago. Between the Hillary Clinton pantsuit, the Sarah Palin wigs, and Michelle Obama in purple,  I’m often wondering what’s going on here, health care reform, aerial wolf hunting or my favorite subject, personal style.

The interpretations of Marc Jacob’s SS09 collection have been wildly mixed, I’ve read 1930’s inspired, YSL Ballet Russes, I would have to go with Lauren Hutton’s interpretation of the post-millennial suffragette. The soundtrack of the runway show was the 1920’s Gershwin Rhapsody in Blue, which has distinctly early 20th century charm, visual cues of straw hats at a jaunty angle, high collared blouses, tailored, wide lapel jackets  and high waisted feminine skirts, reminiscent of the WWI-era hobble skirt. Marc Jacobs himself leaves his collections open to interpretation, while, I’m not sure if he’s making a political statement here, or a political observation, there is certainly a parallel between two times.

Organic Correlations

New York Fashion Week had shows with a dark vision of the future, the post-apocalyptic Rodarte, and evil scientist looking Proenza Schouler, but Organic by John Patrick took another interpretation by connecting our future with the problems we’ve faced in the past. This collection was inspired by the Dustbowl ecological disaster of the 1930’s and the intense resourcefulness of people who lived during the Depression. Ruffles, ginghams and wallpaper florals on faded fabrics echo scenes from a Dorothea Lange portrait. However John Patrick goes beyond mere aesthetics and addresses the ecological issues of today with a solution, working with sustainable fabrics and ethically congruent labor practices.

All in all, it’s becoming obvious that there are going to be interesting shifts occurring in fashion, where some are beginning to wondering how much is enough, or taking a break from buying new, or even if trends matter at all.  Who really knows what lies ahead, but it’s safe to say what ever happens, we’re resilient enough to keep it interesting.

Marc Jacobs Image Source, Organic by John Patrick Image Source,

Petal Pusher

So… now that fall is settling in, florals are no longer part of the trend equation? Well, I don’t know, as the flower and female personae have gone hand in hand for as long as the human race can remember. Looking at these two pieces first by Valentino, check out the cuffs… it’s sculptural genius and Jil Sander does a similar thing in a more clean, modern way with the collar mimicking a budding tweed rose. These petals are just gorgeous, and personally I’d like to move the Valentino blouse over to the Jil Sander tweed coat. I know it’s over the top, but I’d swoon over it anyway.

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Can you even call plaid a trend? I don’t really think so… some years it’s more favorable than others, but let’s be honest here, we all have a little tartan in our wardrobe. Every now and then a few designers will come out with some exciting plaids in their collection, this year there’s Matthew Williamson, House of Holland, and Dolce&Gabbana. In lieu of the fast approaching autumn (September’s just little over a week away!) I’ve been noticing a few bits of tartan pop up on the likes of Susie Bubble and in Wardrobe Remixers like AudiSF. It’s just enough to get me coveting this classic pattern… It’s really great to see plaid mixed with other patterns like florals and polkadots, nowadays anything goes, and it’s better not to be too matchy-matchy else there’s the danger of falling into the Mr. Rogers trap (which I do quite often).

Here are some bits that I found just poking around the internet…

60’s Plaid Shift Dress $9.99 auction ends 22/08/08

Zipper Punk Tartan Slip Dress

60’s Mod Scooter Dress $24

70’s Tartan Blazer $49

50’s Pin-up Tartan Halter $39

Primark Vivienne Dress £15 auction ends 23/08/08

Now all I need to do is pull my tartans out!

These days, I’m not sure if I could possibly get away with wearing bicycle shorts alone, but, as I’m getting older, the idea of wearing short-shorts is becoming less and less appealing, even with all the ways to make your legs look great, short-shorts are a personal phobia. Luckily, Prada didn’t invent the bicycle short, so if you’re already into the idea, you can get them at American Apparel, for $20.

And if maybe, you’re not so keen (and maybe you’re not) just take notice, sit back and see how things unfold. I might be wrong, but I have a feeling we’ll be seeing them around. I think the best way I’ve seen these shorts done is by Madonna in her Holiday video, they aren’t really shorts, but they’re not pants either…

Holiday

There is a lot more to Norway than Style Bytes and sardines… For instance, Norwegian sweaters. One of my favorite Scandinavian blogs Life is Carbon, introduced these traditional sweaters by iiS with a modern twist. Although, I’ve seen these sweaters around before, mostly on hippies and random outdoorsy people, I’ve never really lived in a place where it was necessary to have an abnormally functional sweater to cozy up in. One of these Norwegians would be too warm to wear under a jacket, and too holey to block the wind and rolling fog. Maybe one of these sweaters might be good to keep on hand for a San Francisco summer.

I am totally smitten by the geometric patterns and ethnic charm. I’ve seen people cozy up in these lovely numbers on Face Hunter and Stil in Berlin, and perhaps this look is for me? Perhaps one with a floral patterned dress? Gosh, sometimes I think my move is hindering my shopping. Oh wait, it is. There is a decent collection of vintage Norwegian sweaters on eBay, a lovely blue and white cardigan with pewter hooks and ribbon trim. There’s even a couple mock-Norwegians. How cute is that?

The first time I came across monkey fur was at the Deco Show this past winter. It was awkward, being born and bred in California has made me naturally dubious of fur. Of course, living in warm climates, fur has always meant an extreme cost for glamor both fiscally and morally. That with the fact I was a vegetarian for ten years, and vegan for two of those ten, a huge portion of my life, I had great difficulties even with leather. For years, the whole concept of wearing even a leather jacket gave me the heebie jeebies.

Which is the word I would use when I first came in contact with monkey fur. Popular in the 1930’s and 40’s there are quite a number of vintage monkey fur coats floating around on places like eBay and vintage shoppes. The fur itself is creepy because it eerily feels like human hair.

The sales lady said “all the Swedish girls love monkey fur” as if that would entice me to purchase the jacket.

The sales lady said “all the Swedish girls love monkey fur” as if that would entice me to purchase the jacket. Of course, the Scandinavians, they did not have the luxury of sunny warm weather in January. And for some reason, Europeans can carry this stuff off without as much guilt. I don’t know how, but they do.

I’m somewhat mystified with the whole monkey fur thing, I loved Gareth Pugh’s Mongolian Warrior type coats. Although I am not sure what kind of fur it is, it reminds me of monkey. Also, the coats like the ones found on Face Hunter and Alta Mira, both are shockingly cool in my eyes. Although, if a monkey fur coat existed like the bolero Kingdom of Style wore to LFW, (not monkey) I would be smitten. In the research, I came across a pair of old monkey fur booties that are incredible. Though they were created as an art piece, I would be delighted to see a pair produced, perhaps not using anything too high on the evolutionary ladder.

So where exactly do I draw the line?

Is this shameful coveting? I’m intrigued by fur culture. I don’t really know what to say. On one hand there is something rather dark and sinister about it, but I feel somewhat better about buying vintage fur. I own a jacket with a real fox fur collar. I love it, and it keeps me much warmer than the synthetic counterparts. Sure, I’m wearing a tiny dog, but that dog has been dead longer than I’ve been alive.

There have always been faux alternatives, and even fur options that perhaps can rest in my mind easier. I love the way it looks, but I still can’t wholeheartedly wear my fur collar without feeling guilty.

I’m very confused, and I’m sorry for confusing you.

Before my brother came along, it was just me and my little sister for a majority of our childhood. Well, exactly half of mine…. but we had to share everything, our room, toys, sometimes even clothes. That’s the way it is for most of us. The thing that I always felt separated us were our haircuts. I had long braids, and my sister had a Johnny Ramone bowl-cut (even though her name is Joey). At the time, I felt superior (note the rivalry), but in retrospect, I envy people with thick, shiny, straight hair and the perfect bangs. My hair is too wild and frizzy to pull off such a thing, like wardrobe remixer, Headquarters & NorwegianWood.

Luckily, Henrik Vibskov showed us at Copenhagen Fashion Week, that you don’t have to be genetically superior to pull of the Johnny Ramone:

Now, green may not be your color, and it’s probably not. (I’m kidding), there are other approaches… for instance, Reality Studio, has made some wonderful Morrocan-inspired fringes. Although they be more like ‘the Genie in the bottle’ I’m thinking, this fringe, won’t get greasy after 3 hours, and it will definitely hide my need for botox.

On another note…. did anyone notice how cool those braids are? It’s got me itchin’, to try to get some kind of ‘do’… by a professional…. we’ll see.