While not as sculptural as previous collections, there is something rather simple and beautiful about these pieces, each having braided or ruched details, and lots of rope…

A while back we visited Anuschka Hoevener at  her studio in Berlin… I saw she had her spring collection in the making, she was playing around with nautical ropes, using different knots to create sculptural forms. I was really excited to see how it developed.

Showing in Paris last week at the Rendez Vous Femme showroom we’re now able to get a peek. While not as sculptural as previous collections, there is something rather simple and beautiful about these pieces, each having braided or ruched details, and lots of rope…

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Cowboys haven’t had the best associations lately W., Hannah Montana and the Cyrus family…. But word on the street is the western aesthetic is being adopted by the ‘hard-core hip’ in Paris.

One would think that these would be the last days you’d see the western aesthetic popping up. Cowboys haven’t had the best associations lately W., Hannah Montana and the Cyrus family. But word on the street is the western aesthetic is being adopted by the ‘hard-core hip’ in Paris. I had my doubts, and literally laughed out loud at the ridiculous Hermes collection, it’s extremely cliche. With all the ridiculous cowboys, the west has a lot of beautiful visual cues, Georgia O’Keefe, Brokeback Mountain, Johnny Cash, Pasty Cline, The Good, The Bad and The Ugly… ok… I can make a long list of great western films, so I’ll stop here.

Here’s three amazing collections utilizing the western aesthetic…

Toga

Japanese label, designed by Yasuko Furuta highlights the pretty elements of the cowboy aesthetic, softening it with neutral colors and soft, stretchy fabrics. via DazedDigital (thanks Susie!)

Peter Pilotto

Antwerp design grads Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos design a western themed 1830’s ‘minerologist’ collection, mixing textile prints with a distinctive old west winter attire.

Givenchy

Probably the most literal and mainstream of the lot… yet focusing not on the hat, boots and fringe, but the cuts of the cowboy blazer, the bolero tie… an Elvis cape… there is also hints of the cowboy bondage that is normally reserved for the Folsom Street Fair more than Paris. via Style.com

They used to say hemlines reflected the economy… then they said, it didn’t matter anymore… but I’m wondering since this year hemlines seem to be all over the place, even on the same garment… if the old adage is actually true. Either way, from Luella, Miu Miu, Sonia Rykiel, and Haider Ackermann… to name a few … there’s quite a number of multi-layered, multi-length skirts and dresses on the runways for the coming up spring season.

Of course I couldn’t let these go by without trying out some of my own versions of this look. I happen to think it’s genius, like what to do with those vintage aprons I have hanging around… or maybe… how to get the most wear out of the countless skirts I already own… why not wear two at a time? Using two belts (while I’m at the multple kick,  why not go all out?) I belted on a lighter fluffy skirt that’s almost too airy to wear on it’s own. It makes the lace tiered mini a little less mini and a little more tiered.

runway pics from style.com

While I know everyone and their mother has been posting about Gareth Pugh’s incredible SS09 collection… I just couldn’t let this one go by without posting about it either. It’s amazing how he pushes the envelope by choosing form over function. While I do believe there are pieces in this collection that are by far some of the more wearable pieces he’s ever designed… gorgeous as anything I’ve seen.. there are his more experimental pieces going between science fiction and Elizabethan references. I do believe that there is a lot of Star Wars in this, with the light side and the dark side.. and of  course the white armored look which I can’t help but to think of a storm trouper.

Science Fiction in Real Life

Gareth Pugh SS09 on the runway, and a couple of Stom Troupers calling collect… photo by Steve Schofield in his series about people who dress up as (science) fictional characters.. it’s a great photo series.

Life and Legend

Elizabethan revival, in the most modern of ways… of course you know I can’t help but to post neck ruffs.

Maybe, just maybe, someone will put these two together in a film as successfully as Gareth Pugh so Rocky and I can agree on a movie…. we’ll see.

While some like Alexander Wang, are very Homes and Garden worthy,  I was delighted to see Judi Rosen, the designer behind The Good, The Bad and The Ugly NYC (and to see her wearing ReMix Vintage Shoes). Her home is rather of wonderland of oddities, flea market finds and bad taxidermy. She loves the kind of stuff I know would get vetoed by my other half, but persoanlly… I’m smitten. It’s really great to see how her designs and her living environment kind of overlap in a kitchy-collaged-utlra-girly way.

Here she is wearing her Cut it Out cocktail dress, and a vintage bag with a chicken foot…

Some ephemeral items of home decor… I love these strange pictures!

If you’re having a hard time keeping up with all the new shows coming in… you’re not alone. I myself, have resorted to trying all kinds of strategies to keep collections from melting together. Here is a brief recap of what happened there in story book titles…

Little Red Riding Hood

Everlasting Sprout, G.V.G.V

Moby Dick

Mint Design

Snow White

Noriko Fukushima

Cinderella

The ‘before’ dress with sleeping bag wig by Zechia, wedding dress by Junya Tashiro

Little House on the Prairie

Né-net

Nancy Drew

Mikio Sakabe

Great Expectations

sunaokuwahara

101 Dalmations

So it’s a movie… I’m sure there’s a book somewhere… Kashima Chinami

Pipi Longstocking

mercibeaucoup

Nutcracker

Zinkato, Motonari Ono

The Martian Chronicles

Somarta

Thumbelina

fur fur

Curious George

Boutique Nicole

The Bride of Frankenstein

Another film, but I couldn’t resist… Hisui

Anna and the King of Siam (aka) The King and I

I bet you thought I was going to stretch it here too… Hiroko Koshino

All photos from Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo

2008 has been the biggest year for women in politics in the US since women won the right to vote just 88 years ago. Between the Hillary Clinton pantsuit, the Sarah Palin wigs, and Michelle Obama in purple,  I’m often wondering what’s going on here, health care reform, aerial wolf hunting or my favorite subject, personal style.

The interpretations of Marc Jacob’s SS09 collection have been wildly mixed, I’ve read 1930’s inspired, YSL Ballet Russes, I would have to go with Lauren Hutton’s interpretation of the post-millennial suffragette. The soundtrack of the runway show was the 1920’s Gershwin Rhapsody in Blue, which has distinctly early 20th century charm, visual cues of straw hats at a jaunty angle, high collared blouses, tailored, wide lapel jackets  and high waisted feminine skirts, reminiscent of the WWI-era hobble skirt. Marc Jacobs himself leaves his collections open to interpretation, while, I’m not sure if he’s making a political statement here, or a political observation, there is certainly a parallel between two times.

Organic Correlations

New York Fashion Week had shows with a dark vision of the future, the post-apocalyptic Rodarte, and evil scientist looking Proenza Schouler, but Organic by John Patrick took another interpretation by connecting our future with the problems we’ve faced in the past. This collection was inspired by the Dustbowl ecological disaster of the 1930’s and the intense resourcefulness of people who lived during the Depression. Ruffles, ginghams and wallpaper florals on faded fabrics echo scenes from a Dorothea Lange portrait. However John Patrick goes beyond mere aesthetics and addresses the ecological issues of today with a solution, working with sustainable fabrics and ethically congruent labor practices.

All in all, it’s becoming obvious that there are going to be interesting shifts occurring in fashion, where some are beginning to wondering how much is enough, or taking a break from buying new, or even if trends matter at all.  Who really knows what lies ahead, but it’s safe to say what ever happens, we’re resilient enough to keep it interesting.

Marc Jacobs Image Source, Organic by John Patrick Image Source,

In Munich, there is a hidden courtyard where Ayzit Bostan creates her world of elegance, small, beautifully tailored collections that don’t run by seasons, but by inspiration. The current collection is sexy, sophisticated, very minimal, yet is loaded with details, a strategic slit, a diagnal seam. I had the opportunity to spend an afternoon at her studio talking with her.. Ayzit’s demeanor comes across more like an artist than the over-the-top typeperson which often goes hand in hand with ‘fashion people’ (who are they?).

“I’m romantic but in a really minimalistic way.”

“What inspires me? Art, music, films friends..not only clothes and fashion, its the other things that inspire me to do clothes”

A few of her favorite artists:
Martin Kippenberge
Olafur Eliasson

The Coveted: How do your clothes reflect your personality?
Ayzit Bostan: I’m romantic in a very minimalistic way.

With all the hardships that come with being independent, the biggest reward is that you don’t have to make compromises, She says “It’s the most freedom you can have. It’s like working like an artist.” Working with the freedom takes time. Time to learn what makes a good design, but with practice, she’s become confident with her editing skills without being complacent.

One of the things I noticed about Ayzit, as like with a lot of progressive designers, she’s very active with on the Internet, not just for getting the word about her collections, but to use it as a resource, to see what others are doing and the communities that surround them.

A few of her favorite sites (also a few of mine).

F&Art
A Shaded View on Fashion
Dezeen

The Coveted: So, what are you doing tonight?
Ayzit: Going to the gym, then going to meet friends for a pizza.
The Coveted: Lovely.

You can find out more at azyitbostan.de

The Studio

The main machine, and patterns on a rack

Work in Progress and Inspiration

On the left is a piece Ayzit is working on, and to the right a piece by one of her favorite artists, Martin Kippenberger.

From The Collection

Suede Tank with aysemetrical cuts, and a simple detailing in the back exposing the nape of the neck

The Blazer

Baggage Check

The lovely bag on the left has optional straps, the one on the right is going to Patty Smith herself…

Petal Pusher

So… now that fall is settling in, florals are no longer part of the trend equation? Well, I don’t know, as the flower and female personae have gone hand in hand for as long as the human race can remember. Looking at these two pieces first by Valentino, check out the cuffs… it’s sculptural genius and Jil Sander does a similar thing in a more clean, modern way with the collar mimicking a budding tweed rose. These petals are just gorgeous, and personally I’d like to move the Valentino blouse over to the Jil Sander tweed coat. I know it’s over the top, but I’d swoon over it anyway.

One of the rising stars of German fashion, Marcel Ostertag, still in his 20’s is certainly a force to be reckoned with. Producing entire 50 piece collections on his own, hard labor, doesn’t come without benefits, after all he is the winner of the Karstadt New Generation Award during Berlin Fashion Week, this is only the beginning of his career. The other day, we sat down together in his Munich studio/shop to have a chat about his inspirations, what it’s like to be an independent designer…

Inspiration

“I’m not one to design something practical”

While at Central St. Martins, Marcel Ostertag studied Menswear, but moved towards womens clothing, because women are more keen to wear more daring things… “I’m not one to design something practical.” He then found himself going through old Vogue magazines, particularly the issues from the late 1970’s, dramatic, opulent silhouettes. Of course, the collection isn’t merely repeat the past, it has a modern twist, metallic fabrics, sequins, and a high contrast color palette.

Being Independent

Being an independent designer is tough work, there is a lot to compete with these days, but the challenge doesn’t deter Ostertag. It’s difficult because often you’re on your own while big design houses have research teams, checking trends, inspiration… etc. As an independent designer Ostertag, will have a student studio assistant for two months and by the time he gets to know them and get a good report it’s time for them to move on. Then there’s the pressure to produce a large collection of 50 pieces or so, because no one wants to look at a designer with 10 or so pieces. The samples is produced in the studio, from inspiration, to the patterns, to what you see on the runway. Then the rest of the collection for sale is produced in Germany, so the profit margins can be really tight.

Munich

When so many designers try to move to the big fashion cities like London, Paris, New York, Marcel moved away out of the mainstream centers. After five years in London, it was time to move back home, where the quality of life is higher and one can really concentrate on the important design aspect of fashion. Besides, being outside the mainstream has it’s fringe benefits… Marcel Ostertag, is frequently noted as one of the hottest designers in Germany, and he gets a lot of attention in the German press, and you can just tell he has the drive to expand his brand to international status.

You can find him at MarcelOstertag.com
Photographer: Oliver Rau