Back in May I wrote about the Lipstick Effect (a.k.a. the Lipstick Indicator), the idea that consumers will indulge in less-expensive feel-good items in a bad economy. Historically, lipstick sales surge during economic or political turbulence.

Well, here we are five months later in a full-blown recession. The news hasn’t been pretty at all—what with global financial collapse, rising unemployment, the threat of another Depression and that pert, folksy fraudbot, Sarah Palin.

Is the lipstick indicator still in effect? Are women still binge spending at Sephora and Walgreens? Are we furtively buying $32 lip glosses as we worry about our 401 (k)s? Oh, absolutely!

According to James Edwards at Brand Week, spending on beauty products and procedures (like Botox) remains strong. “Everyone thinks hard times must be triggering women to pull back on discretionary vanity products but the opposite is true.”

Cost costs while saving face

How then are we tightening out belts? As a single, working woman whose only dependent is a cat, my economic circumstances are likely different from married peeps, single mothers, college students and the under or unemployed.

Here’s how I’m cutting costs: bringing lunch to work, shopping at the farmer’s market, canceling my holiday trip to Michigan and putting the kibosh on cabs. Beauty-wise, I’ve cut out facials and scaled back on mani/pedis. I also stopped highlighting my hair four months ago—and I like the results.

So will I continue to buy my pricey European sunscreen and order my Vitamin C serum on eBay? As Sarah Palin would say, you betcha! That said, I’ll still indulge myself on the cheap with d.i.y aspirin masks and other spa-at-home goodies. I plan on masking while I watch tonight’s second presidential debate.

What about you?

Are you saving on what you need so that you can spend on what you want? Have you given up pampering treatments or stopped buying makeup? Post a comment and share your thoughts, ideas and tips.

xx
Kezia

Even in winter time, you can’t wear socks in yoga class, nor will  feet become invisible to significant others.

People often associate pedicures with summer. Sure, summer’s the sandal season… of course it makes sense. The truth is, being good to your feet is a year-round nice thing to do. Maybe it’s because I’m a Pisces, or because my feet are the hardest working part of my body, who knows? The main thing is, that even in winter time, I can’t wear socks in yoga class, nor will my feet become invisible to my significant other.

While during the colder months when socks and stockings help keep calluses in check, and dry skin in check… having fancy pedicures admittedly isn’t the highest on the beauty ‘to do’ list. I usually start doing my own pedi’s during this time of year, well, to save on the cash, and also to save time, as professional pedicures take 45 minutes to an hour, cost from $20-$45 (stateside, in Europe it’s way more) and while I like getting caught up on trashy out of date magazines, I also like to save time.

Here’s what you’ll need to do an at-home pedi:

1. Nail Polish Remover
2. Nail Polish (I use MAC. Chanel, Hard Candy, Opi are all good)
3. Base Coat (Sally Hansen is great)
4. Cotton Balls
5. Tissue (TP also works here)
6. Pumice Sponge
7. Nail clippers
8. Cuticle oil (Olive or Almond oil also works)
9. Emery board

Part 1: Clean & Clip

First things first… remove old nail polish with acetone remover and cotton. I’ve used tissues in a pinch, but cotton really works better.

Cut the nails. Straight across, is fine, but i prefer to follow my natural nail line. Just make sure your nails don’t extend over the toes. Trust me, it’s not a good look.

Gently file the nail with an emery board. Metal files tend to tear the nail, so leave them to breaking out of prison. A gentle emery board will give your nails the right shape.

Push back cuticles. I like to apply some kind of oil or lotion before doing this, cuticle oil is good, but I keep olive oil in the bathroom, so I tend to use it, and it works perfectly. Professionals use orangewood sticks to do this, but more often than not, I use my thumbnail. DO NOT remove the cuticles. It’s not necessary, and it can be painful.

If you have stubborn cuticles, you might want to wait until the next step to push them back.

Part 2: Sloughing

If you have time, you can soak your feet in lavender milk bath… adding half a cup of milk will be nice, the lactic acid helps loosen dead skin, lavender oil is relaxing…

I used to wonder why painting my toes didn’t look as good when I did them myself than when I went to a salon, but then I figured out that half the battle is removing all the excess skin that accumulates particularly from wearing high heels with no socks, or wearing heels in general.

Here is where you can go one of two directions:

If you have time, you can soak your feet in lavender milk bath… adding half a cup of milk will be nice, the lactic acid helps loosen dead skin, lavender oil is relaxing…

If you don’t have a lot of time… or if you’re like me and lazy… I just do the slouging in the shower. I’ve tried all kinds of pumice stones, callus removers, etc… and I  tell you the best thing out there is a pumice sponge. I just scrub my feet with towards the end of the shower, it takes a minute, and it works perfect. When I get out of the shower, if I need to, I’ll push back those stubborn cuticles.

Part 3: Polishing

You don’t have to apply polish directly out of the shower, although it’s nice to do that, it’s not always feasible, particularly if you shower in the morning. Polishing the toes in the evening is just fine, after all, you’ve already done the groundwork.

Step 1: Separate the toes, foam toe separators, cotton, tissue, toilet paper, whatever. I use tissue or toilet paper (it’s long) by twisting it and weaving between the toes.

Step 2: Apply a thin base coat. This makes a huge difference to the life of your pedi, it will make the difference between a week, and a month.

Step 3: Apply a thin coat of your nail polish, starting with the big toe. Maybe I’m superstitious, or maybe because it can handle the initial glob that comes out of the bottle.

Step 4: Apply a second coat, this coat can be a little thicker, but in my experience, it’s better to have more thin coats than one thick one.

Step 5: Give your new paint job 40 minutes to dry. This is where doing it at home can be better, because you can watch TV, or read fashion blogs while you’re waiting for the nails to dry.

It’s not a bad way to spend your time… with practice, it won’t seem too time consuming, and I know I’ve gotten better at painting my own toes. How about you?  How do you keep your feet during cold months?

How do you keep your feet during cold months?

I’m a huge skincare dork. So much so that I actually read books written by dermatologists. It’s only fair that I share what I’ve learned with you.

Today’s lesson: curbing skin inflammation.

Why inflammation is scary
In Wrinkle Free Forever by Dr. Howard Murad (St. Martin’s Griffin: 2004), dermatologist Howard Murad talks about the damage caused by inflammation. Examples of skin inflammation include: acne, allergies, dermatitis, flushing, hives, and the symptoms associated with skin conditions like Rosacea and Psoriasis. Inflammation is a sign that the body is attempting to protect itself from trauma. Over time, this protection backfires, creating an excessive amount of free radicals and leading to water loss in the skin cells (and eventually, loss of elasticity, wrinkles and uneven skin tone). Murad says that antioxidants that double as anti-inflammatories can help halt this process. He suggests that polyphenols (plant-derived antioxidants) are especially beneficial.

The power of polyphenols
Powerful sources of polyphenols include green tea, white tea, grape seed extract, olive oil, dark chocolate and pomegranate. Here’s how they work:

Grape seed extract: Free radical scavengers that strengthen and repair damaged cells with flavanoids. Also a rich source of Essential Fatty Acids.

Green tea: Calms and visible and internal signs of inflammation.

Pomegranate: Reinforces the skin’s structural fibers and boots sun protection.

Other inflammation-reducing ingredients to look for:

• Arnica
• Licorice
• Aloe Vera
• Curcumin
• Chamomile
• Lavender
• Panthenol
• Allantoin
• Zinc

xx

Kezia

image by Porcelaingirl° {enthusiastic foolish}

Past a certain age, to paraphrase iconic French actress Catherine Deneuve, it’s either your face or your figure.

In the late 70s, a woman of a certain age was probably between 35 and 40. The phrase was popularized by psychotherapist Lillian B. Rubin in “Women of a Certain Age: The Midlife Search for Self. Today’s ‘certain age’ is likely much older, although with the proliferation of botox and volumizing injectables , who knows?

Seriously though, as we age (and are no longer in our dewy 20s) striving to maintain a runway-model-thin or elite-athlete-fit body can make you look gaunt and older than you really are.

Why yo-yo dieting is bad

It’s no shocker that tanning, puffing on American Spirits and downing cocktails is a recipe for lackluster skin and wrinkles (not to mention serious health consequences). Another way to court lines and sags is to keep gaining and losing the same 10-20 pounds. When women lose weight, it comes off their face and breasts first, leading to slackened, inelastic and damaged skin.

You are what you eat

Nutritionists, doctors, your healthiest friend at work all believe that eating whole organic whole foods benefits skin. Your diet should also include good fats like salmon, avocados, olive oil and almonds that keep skin supple and safeguards against inflammation. According to uber-derm, Dr. Perricone, controlling inflammation can help delay and reverse premature aging in skin.

Exercise smarter, not harder

High-impact exercise- like running- increases stress on the skin with constant repetitive motion. Over time, this leads to too much facial fast loss. I’m talking grueling, long distance runs more than thrice weekly. Jogging is fine– just be sure to wear sunscreen if you jog outside during daylight. Yoga, biking and walking (my favorite) also give good glow.

In addition to maintaining a healthy weight (for you), follow these practical tips for lovely, covetable skin<

• When possible, avoid excess amounts of stress and get plenty of sleep (I know– easier said than done…)
  

• Shun the sun during peak hours—10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and protect your skin with SPF daily

• Don’t smoke. It’ll kill you and make you look old fast
  

• Drink lots of water—hydrated skin looks plumper is less prone to wrinkling.

Image from La Chamade via Cafe Mode

I’m back from Kauai. OK, I actually returned a few weeks ago. I’ve neglected my Beautiful Tuesdays posts, and I apologize. Here’s what happened. After a fabulously relaxing, idyllic tropical holiday, my relationship ended — and it wasn’t my choice. Anyway, the last few weeks have been rough. For my own mental health, I needed to keep a healthy distance from Internet.

But all is not lost. I’ve made being good to myself my number one priority. Of course for me that includes (sorta budget-friendly) beauty indulgences. I paint my toenails while watching Sex and the City reruns and let my Pangea Organics Japanese Matcha Tea mask work it’s magic during Season 5 of The Wire (thank God for Netflix). I also have fabulous, loving, kind-hearted girlfriends who have had my back.

Hawaiian Beauty Secret
And since I can finally talk/write about Kauai without crying, I want to share a skincare discovery. Despite my best efforts, I burned my back and shoulders (but not my face!). On a whim I bought a bottle of kukui nut oil from Oils of Aloha in Princeville. I slathered it on my burnt parts and I didn’t peel and the redness subsided quickly. Since then I’ve used it as a nighttime face and body moisturizer. It absorbs quickly, doesn’t cause breakouts and makes my skin look glowy. I seriously love this stuff.

What Makes it So Great?
Kukui nut oil is loaded with essential fatty acids, which are anti-inflammatory, healing and hydrating. It contains 78% oleic acid, 19% linoleic acid and 6% palmitc acid.

Kukui oil has been used in Hawaii for centuries to protect, heal and nourish skin that has been exposed to the elements–harsh sun, drying winds and salt water. It’s also beneficial for these conditions:

• Burns – including: sunburn, windburn, radiation burns, and heat induced burns.
• Eczema
• Chapped skin
• Psoriasis
• Mature and prematurely aged skin
• Dry skin conditions
• Acne
• Scars
• Lesions
• Dry hair and scalp

xxKezia

After cutting my hair back in March, I’ve decided to grow my hair long again, but the problems always arise with the question of how often I should wash my hair. I have friends that could go a week with one or two washes, but my hair is so fine, that it’s difficult stretch the time between washes, leaving the problems of dry hair, the battle of the frizz, brittle hair, etc. Long hair is a lot of work. The real reason I look to alternatives, mostly is because I want healthier hair.

Cuts Thru Grease

Shampoos are detergents for hair. Just like dish washing detergent, laundry detergent, they strip the hair of it’s natural moisturizers by cutting through the grease, that’s why we need conditioner to replace the oils. Then the glands go into overdrive to replace the stripped oil, producing greasy hair, which then needs more shampoo, conditioner, etc.

It’s a vicious cycle.

I’m saying this from personal experience. When I wash my hair with shampoo, it looks good the day it’s washed, and if I go one day without washing, it’s greasy. Since I’ve started using baking soda/apple cider vinegar/honey in my hair I’ve been able to stretch washes two to four days without getting ‘greasy hair’.

How to go shampoo free:

People have been using sodium bicarbonate(baking soda) like soap since ancient Egyptian times. Baking soda has tons of uses, it’s essential in cupcakes, it’s a deodorizer, you can brush your teeth with it, add in your bath to soften skin, helps relieve rashes, burns, insect bites… and you can wash your hair with it. In the States, you can buy a 4lb box of baking soda for about $4. Here, in Germany, I’ve only managed to find small packets… I’ve heard they sell it in larger quantities, but not at the average supermarket.

Baking soda will remove the grime without stripping your hair of it’s natural oils. Use one tablespoon per wash. You can dissolve the baking soda in half a cup of water or add a small amount of water to make a paste. I generally use the watery kind because it goes through my hair easier. Massage the solution in your scalp and leave for a minute.

The second part is using Apple Cider Vinegar to soften the hair… after rinsing out the baking soda use a solution of two tablespoons of ACV to half a cup of water. Don’t worry about the smell, it goes away in a few moments. It makes your hair soft, but if used too often, you may experience greasiness.

Mostly I hear to experiment with different solutions until you get what works best. So far I haven’t had any disasters, but I’m still trying to figure out the perfect mix. Since I’ve been using baking soda, I haven’t had itchy scalp, my hair is more manageable, and I don’t think shampoo does a particularly better job.

I would not recommend you try this if you have colored hair. I have not found any information to confirm the baking soda is color-safe, and if this seems too ‘hippy’ of a solution for you there are several dry shampoos or ‘no poo’s out in the market.

Dry Shampoo:

Oscar Blandi Dry Shampoo: $19 Got great reviews on Makeup Alley and Amazon, particularly popular amongst blondes who have issues with dry hair, and color protection.

No Poo:

Deva Curl No Poo : $17 This keeps getting mentioned in the New York Times, made from the hip salon for curly hair Devachan, it’s special for curly hair, but they also have specific nopoo’s for color treated hair.

Resources:

There’s a lot of information out there, but here are some favorites:

Info: Shampoo Free

Of course I washed my hair…

Life Less Plastic

The No Poo Method (video)

Welcome to California, Just Add Water…

Chinatown is by far one of my most favorite films. Loosely based on the irrigation controversies in 1930’s Los Angeles, the multi layered plot twists and turns while retaining cinematic perfection. Starring Jack Nicholson and Faye Dunaway, it’s a neo-noir film directed by Roman Polanski. The other night we were watching it, and I just couldn’t help but to notice Evelyn Mullwray’s (Faye Dunaway’s) wardrobe. Unlike some other modern stars, her costume is fabulous, but holds some semblance of continuity, like the brown envelope clutch (I must get one), the pearls and red lipstick. Each piece is perfectly put together. I don’t want to ruin the movie, because if you haven’t seen it, please do… it’s excellent.

The Hair

In the film of course, Faye Dunaway has gorgeous hair. I’m assuming they have hairstylists on the set making sure she looks perfect in every shot. For us non-starlettes getting a 1930’s doo can be more tricky. If you’re in LA, Revamp does these wonderful vintage emersion classes where they go over beauty tips from yesteryear. If you can’t get to LA, you there are lots of great tutorials on YouTube.

The Clutch

Here are a few vintage brown clutches I found on eBay… It’s amazing she could fit everything in that clutch… but as you may know how I feel about big bags.

Givenchy Leather Clutch : Brown with Tortise Clasp Clutch : Fendi Crocodile Clutch

I love spa treatments as much as the next girl (perhaps more). Still, who wants to spend extra money on treatments and spas? Jennifer Aniston might have a $30K monthly beauty budget, but I sure don’t.

If your skin needs a little rejuvenating, try one of these ultra-easy D.I.Y. skin treatment recipes and let the pampering begin.

Sugar Body Polish

1 1/2 cups raw or brown sugar
1/3 cup real maple syrup
1/3 cup olive oil or sunflower oil
Drops of your favorite essential oil (Optional)

Prep: Mix ingredients together and put in a closed container.

Use: Apply scrub to wet skin in a circular motion to exfoliate. Remove thoroughly with water and a wash cloth.

Refreshing Cucumber Toner

1/2 large or 1 medium cucumber (unpeeled but washed)
2 tablespoons witch hazel

Prep: Puree cucumber in a blender or mixer. Next, strain the cucumber pulp into a bowl. Mix the liquid from the cucumber only with the witch hazel.

Use: Soak a cotton ball with the toner and apply to face, neck and chest.

Calming Oatmeal Mask

2 tablespoons oatmeal (regular, not instant)
2 tablespoons full fat plain yogurt
2 teaspoons honey

Prep: Mix ingredients together in a bowl.

Use: Apply mask mixture to clean skin and let sit for 10 or 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with warm water.

I’m going to Kauai tomorrow with my boyfriend. I kind of can’t believe it. Other than visiting my family in Michigan, I haven’t taken a trip– let alone a vacation– in years. I think I’ll prefer frolicking in the ocean, snorkeling and hiking the Na Pali coast to hostile family dinners and trips to the mall in southwestern Michigan.

OK, some of you are probably scratching your heads and saying– wait, aren’t you in Germany right now? Nope. I’m Kezia, not Jennine. I’m a guest writer on The Coveted, covering beauty, make up, skincare and the like. Some of the comments on my previous post (Slim Down the Sassy Way) made me realize that it’s not always crystal clear when it’s me posting. I promise to post a bio and even include some pics of myself soon.

Back to my vacation. Confession: I’m stoked that I’m going to Hawaii (not to mention off work for 10 days!) but freaked out about the sun. As you know, I’m somewhat of a nut when it comes to sunscreen consumption and avoidance of prime sun hours. Not surprisingly, I’m bringing an arsenal of sun protection –and will probably find more to buy on the island. Instead of boring you with an itemized list of sunscreens, I’ll share my sun strategy for my face, neck and chest (the places I fear sun damage the most).

First of all, I’ll wear a wide brimmed hat and polarized sunglasses during the day. To further protect my face/neck/chest it’s La Roche Posay Anthelios Fluide Extreme SPF 50+ — the only photostable sunscreen that doesn’t break me out.

Next, I’ll up the ante with a generous dusting of Colorscience Sunforgettable SPF 30 Almost Clear. At $50, it’s a bit pricey. I snagged mine on eBay for around $28. This translucent lightweight mineral powder comes in an easy-to-use retractable brush that makes application quick and easy. Plus, unlike other mineral powders, it’s not messy. What makes it so great: micronized minerals Zinc Oxide and Titainium Dioxide for with broad spectrum (UVA and UVB and Infrared) sun protection. Plus, it doesn’t absorb into your skin or burn your eyes when you sweat.

Beyond that, I promise not to get all worked up over a few stray UVA/UVB rays. After all, I’ll probably get a years worth of vitamin D in a week.

xx

Kezia

Kauai photo by bryce_edwards

Big, sparkly eyes are hard to resist, for anyone. Trying saying no to a puppy dog, or saying Sailor Moon is ugly and stupid. It’s hard… but nowadays, if you want irresistibly adorable, you don’t have to win the genetic lottery, you can just buy your own big ‘anime’ eyes. (thanks BoingBoing for letting us know)

While I’m not exactly sure how the big, glossy eyes of anime became the standard, it’s characteristic rendering has become a global obsession (just take a look at how big the anime section of Borders has gotten lately). Now it’s possible to not just dress up like a character in Harajuku, but you can even wear contact lenses giving you the anime look. The lenses are tinted to extend the outer ring of your iris… giving it the appearance that it’s double it’s natural size, the centers are clear, so if your eyes are anything other than black, you might have a problem.

Other reasons to covet big eyes…

I may be too old and too far west to fall into the Harajuku trap. I may shudder at the thought of putting anything in my own eyes… but the big eyes… they seem to have got me, not so much for the cartoon look, but I’m thinking Bette Davis, and who doesn’t want Bette Davis eyes?